ANCHOR for increased ACCURACY

All archers need an unchanging anchor point for their draw hand, a location on or below your chin to ensure you have a consistent starting point for your hand and string. One of my Tumbler followers, Andy, asked…

…Since I’m just an amateur with the bow and don’t have any training… why you and archers in general, when they stretch to the full pose, set the hand that is stretching the string with the arrow bellow the chin? That helps for a better accuracy shoot? or is because the type of bow?(sorry I don’t know any terminology if you can help me with that too it would be cool). Thanks for the help…

There are four basic locations for an anchor point; under-the-chin, beside the face, over-hand anchor, and floating anchor, all have there pros and cons depending on your shooting style.

Under the Chin      

Draw the string to the center of the nose and middle of chin. A good anchor point consists of an unchanging triangle with the string touching the center of your nose and the center of your chin and your thumb tucked squarely under your jaw line and the shelf of your index finger riding along your jaw. (Alternatively string to the side of nose and the corner of your mouth however this is typically less accurate for recurve archers and better for peep sight usage on compounds.)

• Advantages: This anchor has multiple touch points for triangular consistency and helps avoid overdrawing.
• Disadvantages: It takes a little longer to position and master, and can be less comfortable depending on the archer.

Side of Face

Typically the string is drawn back until the tip of the index finger is at the corner of the mouth with the hand tight against the face. Some archers tuck their thumb under their jaw.  Depending on the tournament, some archers can face walk for difference distances. (move your hand up and down on your face)

• Advantages: Anchor style can be established quickly and allows bare-bow to sight down the arrow shaft.
• Disadvantages: This style is not typically as precise as under the chin and sometimes leads to plucking the arrow string.

Over-hand (Mechanical Release)

Typically over-hand is associated with a mechanical release. Mechanical release aids offer less interference with the string and are most commonly used by compound shooters and hunters. When having an over-hand release for a compound shooter you would have either your knuckle(s) or your thumb touching behind the corner of your jaw.

• Advantages: Very accurate and it allows your elbow to align with the arrow at release
• Disadvantages: Takes longer to set and position and a release aid needs to be setup based on the individual archer. Also since it very accurate scores are VERY high in competition and you have less room for error.

Floating Anchor (or partly floating)

A floating anchor is another option for some archers, the shape of some people’s jaw can make it difficult to do an under the chin anchor position. Some people take this position literally and have their hand floating in the middle of nowhere; this is really hard to make consistent because you have no point of reference to make the anchor position easily repeatable. However, you could go with a ‘partly’ floating anchor where you can have your hand touching a point of your jaw (or more if you can).

• Advantages: Can provide an easier anchor point  for people with wider jaw lines.
• Disadvantages:  Typically, not as consistent or as easily repeatable.

The anchor needs to be consistent and repeatable  on every shot. Some tips include…

• Keep your head straight and still and bring the string to you so you can easily make your anchor and draw length consistent.
• Chewing bubble gum, talking, or even moving your chin will result in inconsistent shots and therefore lower scores since you are changing the angle of the string as our jaw moves.
• Keeping your shoulders relaxed and in their sockets and pointing your draw arm directly behind you.
• Check your string alignment by matching the blurred image of the string in relation to the bow’s riser.

You will want to establish as many touch points as you can manage to help develop the most consistent anchor. A great consistent anchor leads to a happier more consistent archer.

sumber : https://jordansequillion.wordpress.com/tag/point/

ARCHERY SAFETY FIRST

There is often a misconception that archery is very dangerous. Although a bow and arrow can be a lethal weapon, archery is actually one of the safest sports because there is a culture of safety. Statistically, archery is one of the safest recreational sports there is with only 0.65 injuries per 1000 participants as outlined in the USA National Electronic Injury Surveillance System and represents the hospitals which actually record the information. Check out the Archery Safety report from Arizona State and Fish Department from 2004.

This is largely because of the culture of safety that encompasses the sport. All coaches start by instructing their students with the fundamentals of archery safety. I remember my first lesson was about safety first. Nowadays, I regularly shoot through my house for practice and we never worry about danger because of the culture of safety within my house. Everyone follows the basic archery safety rules. For archers there are two basic areas of safety that you should maintain, personal safety including equipment and field or range safety.

Personal Safety

• Always shoot with well maintained equipment and arrows
  • Always inspect your equipment and arrows before shooting
  • Before shooting each arrow inspect the arrow and nock for damage
  • Cracked or bent arrow must never be shot.
• One should always use a bow-stringer for longbows and recurve bows. This will reduce the possibility of damage to the bow and injury to the person.
• Shoot with good archery form ensuring you wear proper attire and a properly positioned arm-guard.
• Never, ever shoot while intoxicated or with anyone who is.

Good Rule of Thumb: If in doubt, stop and get it checked it out.

Field and Range Safety

• When shooting…
  • Do not shoot with ANYONE in front of the shooting line
  • Do not nock an arrow while anyone is in front of the shooting line
  • Only nock an arrow whwn you are on the shooting line and after the signal to start shooting
  • A loaded bow is only pointed at the assigned target
  • NEVER EVER point an arrow at anyone, whether on a bow or not.
  • Arrow must never be shot straight up into the air
• When not shooting
  • Pay attention and be respectful of other archers
  • Once finished shooting you must be behind the shooting line and paying attention
• When retrieving arrows from the target
  • Leave your bow behind the shooting line (hang-up your bow), you will need two free hands to collect your arrows from the target
  • Always walk forward to collect the arrows, never run.
  • Always pick-up arrows on the way first. Whether they yours or not.
  • Always walk up to the side of the target butt, so as to not to accidentally walk into the rear of the arrows lodged in the target.
  • One person at a time should withdraw their arrows from the target.
  • When withdrawing arrows from the target, ensure no-one is standing behind you. Pulling arrows may require a lot of force and they can come out of the target suddenly and could hurt someone standing behind them.
  • When carrying arrows, always hold them to your side with the points down.
  • Make sure that EVERYONE has returned behind the shooting line before starting the next shooting end.

Individual ranges may have additional rules specific to their courses, all ranges will adhere to the basic archery range safety rules. Whether you are a beginner or an experienced professional archer, if we all continue to practice the culture of archery safety we can enjoy the sport for many years to come.

Sumber : https://jordansequillion.wordpress.com/tag/point/

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ARCHERY BEGINNER EQUIPMENT

ARCHERY BEGINNER EQUIPMENT

One very common question I get asked is, "What equipment do I need to start with archery and how much will it cost?"  Well, assuming that you wish to start with recurve archery (which I recommend), the equipment will likely cost anywhere from $136 to $510 for a starter equipment set (minus accessories like a sight or stabilizers).  Here are some lists of suggested starter equipment sets broken down into different price and quality categories:

• Bare-minimum equipment: ~$136 to $139 (spreadsheet list)
• Good equipment: ~$360 (spreadsheet list)
• Good equipment - shorter archers: ~$360 (spreadsheet list)
• Better equipment: ~$487 to $510 (spreadsheet list)
• Better equipment - shorter archers: ~$487 to $510 (spreadsheet list)

While the bare-minimum equipment is sufficient for most archers starting out, there's a good chance that the archer will quickly progress out of the bare-minimum gear.  If finances allow and the archer is committed to sticking with it, I usually recommend going with at least the "Good Equipment".   

As the archer progresses, they will want to add other pieces of equipment like a good quality sight (which can cost more than the riser), stabilizers, clickers, bow stands, etc.  These items are beyond the scope of this page, and are best discussed with a coach or knowledgeable archery shop.

While you can buy equipment online at a discount, you may be better off buying gear from a local archery shop even if it is a few dollars more.  They can help you set up the bow and make sure it's shooting properly.  Having said this, make sure that the shop actually knows what they're talking about - many shops only know hunting compound bows and target recurve bows are completely different animals.  Do your homework!

Bow Sizing and Handedness (eye-dominance)

Bows should be sized appropriately for each archery in both bow length and draw weight.  Additionally, you should buy a bow that matches your eye-dominance.

Bow Length

The bow length is determined more by draw length than by the archer's height.  For an accurate measure of the archer's draw length, visit an archery shop or consult a coach.  Here are some quick bow length suggestions based upon draw length:

Recurve Bow Length to Draw Length Chart
If my draw length is….	…then I should shoot a bow this size.
up to 25″	54″ to 62″
25" to 27″	64″ to 66″
27" to 29″	66″ to 68″
29" to 31″	68″ to 70″
31″ and over	70″ to 72″

Bow Draw Weight

For beginners, bow draw weight should be kept very light, even for shooters who consider themselves a strong person.  When beginning, the first task is to learn the proper form and develop it consistently.  If you are dealing with too much draw weight you may not be able to use proper form and may even injure yourself. 

For children, keep the draw weight around 10-15 pounds.  For teens and adults, keep the draw weight around 15-24 pounds.  If you are getting a bow with interchangeable limbs (all of the above recommended bows do), you can increase your draw weight after you have begun to master your form and built some strength.

Eye Dominance

Just as people have dominant hand preference (right or left-handed), people also have dominant eyes.  Even though you might not realize it, there is a high likelihood that you use one of your eyes more than the other, and it's beneficial to make sure that you buy a bow that matches your eye dominance.

Much of the time, eye dominance matches hand dominance, but it's not impossible, for example, to have a right-handed archer with left-eye dominance.  If you have right-eye dominance, you shoot a right-handed bow.  Left-eye dominant shooters use left-hand bows.  Make sure to establish whether your archer is left or right eye dominant prior to buying gear.

Arrows and Fletching

Proper arrow selection and choice of fletchings can be a contentious subject.  Modern arrows are most commonly made of aluminum, carbon, or both.

Arrow Spine

Arrows are "sized" by choosing the correct spine, then cutting to the proper length.  Arrow spine is a measurement of how stiff the arrow is.  In order for an arrow to fly properly, it must be the proper spine for you and your bow.  Spine is usually expressed as a number like 600, 700, 800, etc., which indicates how much a shaft deflects when a "standardized" weight is suspended from it.  In other words, the higher the number, the more flexible the arrow.  Light bow draw weights need softer spines, and hence higher spine numbers.  

Manufacturers provide charts that assist in choosing arrows, but this is where it gets contentious.  Those charts are frequently designed for compound bows and are commonly not quite correct for lighter poundage recurve bows.  It's a really good idea to talk with a coach or knowledgeable archery shop (one that sells and shoots bows like yours) prior to buying arrows so you get the right spine.

Aluminum Arrows

Aluminum arrows are generally made from high strength alloys such as 7075 series aluminum.  Examples are the Easton Jazz/Tribute (same arrows - different paint job) and Easton Platinum Plus.

• Advantages: can be quite inexpensive, rarely break completely, have very consistent spine from arrow-to-arrow, and perform very well.  
• Disadvantages: can be bent easily (especially in the light spines used by beginners), and are also heavier than carbon arrows, spine changes over time due to use.

Carbon Arrows

Carbon arrows are the most common arrows today.  Carbon is a very light and stiff material, which makes it a good choice for arrows.  There are some high-end competition arrows that are made from a thin aluminum covered with carbon.  

• Advantages: very light and stiff, won't bend, spine doesn't change with use, durable, high performance, numerous manufacturers and models to choose from 
• Disadvantages: more expensive than aluminum, inexpensive models can have noticeable spine variation from arrow-to-arrow, tend to shatter/splinter when they break

Because of their high performance, most archers eventually end up with carbon arrows.  For brand new beginners I usually recommend inexpensive aluminum arrows (Jazz/Tribute).  For intermediate archers I recommend either Platinum Plus (aluminum) or carbon arrows (Super Club, Medallion XR).  For advanced archers, most will choose their own based upon preference but will usually end up in at least all carbon if not carbon/aluminum composite.

Fletching

VaneTec Swift vanes - my favorite
plastic vane.

Fletches are the feathers or vanes affixed to the tail end of arrows to stabilize them during flight.  Examples of three types of fletchings commonly used include feathers, plastic vanes, and mylar vanes.  However, there are hundreds of variations within these types, including shape, height, length, material weight, and application methods.  Additionally, there are vanes that are specifically designed for hunting, 3D archery, and recurve use.

It's very easy to get wrapped up about fletchings, but here are a few things I've found in my experimentation:

• Feathers are very light and stabilize quickly but they have more drag, can be expensive, and can be fragile.  They work well for beginners because they correct quickly and strongly, making for good arrow flight with less-than-perfect technique.
• Plastic vanes can be very durable, inexpensive, and have low drag.  Depending upon the size/shape they can stabilize the arrow quickly (with higher drag) or perform minimal stabilizing (with less drag).  They are generally heavier than feathers.
• Mylar vanes are high performance vanes that are light weight, moderately expensive, and moderately durable.  They tend to correct well when shot with good form, but will not correct enough for beginners and won't put up with much abuse.  These are best for intermediate to advanced archers.

Basically, it's up to you what to use as long as you get enough arrow clearance that the vanes/feathers do not impact the bow on the way past it.  I usually recommend a 2" to 3" low profile plastic vane (VaneTec Swift or VaneTec Super Spine) for most general recurve shooting.  The common plastic Blazer vanes (and other vanes designed for hunting) are not a great choice for recurve shooting, as they're designed to be used with hunting broadheads.  If the archer prefers feathers, 2" is a great size but 3" is more common.  

sumber :

https://archerygeek.blogspot.co.id/p/equipment.html

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